Equipment

Currency

There are five types of coins: the copper piece (cp), silver piece (sp), electrum piece (ep), gold piece (gp), and platinum piece (pp). Most people will be familiar with these coins and their relative values, except for platinum which many people will not accept at face value. Platinum is extremely rare and difficult to mine and mint, and only the dwarves have ever used it as an actual standardized currency. Characters will typically need to trade these in with a money changer, or else settle for selling them by weight at a slightly reduced value. Gold coins are not commonly used except by merchants, nobles, and other wealthy individuals, although most actual exchanges of large amounts of wealth take place in the form of trade goods such as gems or livestock. The electrum piece is the most common unit of measurement for anything of moderate value, with lesser exchanges using copper and silver. Standard exchange rates of these coins are listed to the right.

For simplicity, all varieties of coins are about the same size as modern ones. Copper, silver, and electrum coins are slightly smaller than a nickel and weigh in at approximately 100 to a pound, while gold and platinum coins are roughly the size of a penny and weigh in at about 50 to a pound. A one-foot cube, loosely piled, will contain roughly 20,000 coins, while an optimally packed container of the same size will hold roughly 40,000.

Encumbrance

You are only able to carry a certain amount of weight at a time. The more you carry, the more quickly you tire, the slower you move, and the harder it is to fight effectively. Your weight allowance is based off of your Strength score. To determine how much you can lift and carry, refer to the table to the right. The table lists the maximum weight in pounds that you can carry at each encumbrance level. Creatures with four or more legs can carry 50% more weight than listed in the table. Normal light clothing worn doesn't count towards encumbrance.

You may carry up to your maximum unencumbered load with no penalties. If carrying a light or heavier load, you begin to take penalties as given in the table below. The Max Stamina column indicates your maximum stamina relative to your unencumbered maximum, with the resulting value rounded down. The penalty column applies to your movement rate, Strength, Dexterity, and Speed, except that it doesn't affect your weight allowance. In addition to these penalties, if you are overloaded, you cannot take any action requiring an attack roll and your movement rate can be no higher than 2.

Wearing heavy armor or other gear while sleeping is generally very uncomfortable and inhibits proper rest. If you are encumbered while you sleep, you gain fatigue after the first hour of sleep as listed in the sleep fatigue column below, and you cannot remove fatigue by taking a long rest.

If you carry a heavy load for only a short period, it does not affect your stamina. If a load reduces your maximum stamina below your current stamina, your current stamina decreases by an amount equal to the encumbrance category's penalty (minimum of 1) after every minute until it is no longer above the allowed maximum value.

Weapons

There are many weapons to choose from, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Your weapon affects how quickly you can attack, how easy it is to hit your target and how much damage you deal when you hit, how close you must be in order to hit an enemy, how well defended you are, and sometimes what special abilities you are able to use.

Weapons are divided into several groups based on similarities in fighting style and construction, such as axes or bows. Certain abilities require weapons from a specific group in order to use while others allow you to select a group that your ability applies to.

If you are not wielding any weapon, you count as unarmed, listed under gauntlets and claws. Unarmed attacks do not count as a weapon for the purpose of any spells, abilities, or effects that require a weapon or an armed character. You may make an unarmed attack even if both hands are unavailable, provided that you have at least one appendage free to attack.

Weapon Statistics

Accuracy

Some weapons are inherently more difficult or easier to learn or use effectively. Add the weapon's accuracy to all attack rolls with the weapon.

Block

You can use most weapons defensively in some manner, gaining a bonus to defense against melee attacks while wielding that weapon. All weapons have a base block value of None, Low, Medium, or High, which can be modified by the weapon's heft category and how you are wielding it. A weapon with a base block value of None never grants a bonus to block. Otherwise, consult the table to the right and use your total effective melee skill with the weapon to determine your defense bonus.

If you have two weapons in the same hand (such as gauntlets and a sword), only the one you are actively using (the sword) applies its block bonus. Otherwise, block values from multiple weapons stack.

Heft

A weapon's heft determines whether it is classified as a light, one-handed, two-handed, or heavy weapon for you. Add double your Strength and your Size and consult the table to the right to determine the highest heft weapon you can wield in each category. If the weapon's heft is greater than that shown for your heavy category, then you cannot effectively wield the weapon.

Depending on the weapon's heft category and which hand or hands you wield it in, attacks made with the weapon will have a set AP cost, as listed in the table below. If no cost is listed, then that type of weapon cannot be effectively used in that way. Wielding weapons outside of the standard heft category for that hand may result in bonuses or penalties to block and accuracy, as indicated.

Damage

Weapons cause different amounts of damage on a hit, represented as a die roll. This damage is applied to all successful weapon attacks and, combined with your attack roll, determines how much damage is dealt and what level of wound results. If two values are given, the first number applies to melee attacks, and the second applies to ranged attacks.

Reach

A weapon's reach is listed as a range of values in yards. In order to use the weapon effectively in melee, the target must be within the range of your weapon's reach. If no reach is listed, then that weapon cannot be used to make melee attacks. Each melee weapon also has an optimal reach, which is 1 greater than the minimum reach. If you attack a target that is at your weapon's optimal reach, you gain a +1 bonus to your attack roll. Round distances to the nearest yard for purposes of determining if a target is within reach.

Properties

Many weapons have special properties which have additional rules to explain how the weapon functions.

Aquatic

This weapon may be used for melee attacks underwater without the usual damage penalty. All other penalties for fighting underwater still apply.

Armor Piercing

This weapon deals +2 damage against hard-class armor.

Concussive

This weapon deals +1 damage against medium- and hard-class armors.

Defensive

This weapon's block bonus is not applied to your defense unless you use a reaction (AP Cost 1) when attacked by a target you can see to apply the bonus. This bonus can be applied to both melee and ranged attacks that target your standard defense. Additionally, this weapon always applies a flat bonus, given in parenthesis, to both your melee and ranged defense, up to a maximum bonus of 6 + your size.

Irreparable

If this weapon breaks, it has no value and cannot be repaired.

Mechanical

You do not add your Strength to the weapon's damage.

Missile

Missile weapons require ammunition and two hands to load the ammunition. Once loaded, only one hand is required to use the weapon unless it also has the two-handed property. Drawing and loading ammunition can be performed as part of the attack action, provided the ammunition is readily accessible and the weapon does not have the preload property.

One-Handed

This weapon cannot be used two-handed.

Preload

This weapon must be loaded before it can be used. Loading or unloading the weapon is an action with an AP cost specified in the parenthesis. Once loaded, it remains loaded until used or unloaded. If the weapon has the mechanical property, you subtract half your Strength rounded up from the AP cost of loading the weapon, to a minimum cost of 1.

Ranged

A ranged weapon can be used to make ranged attacks. The two numbers in parenthesis are the range increment followed by the maximum range. You suffer no penalty to attack up to a maximum range in yards equal to the range increment, a -1 to attack up to double this range, a -2 to attack up to triple this range, and so on. You cannot make an attack farther than the weapon's maximum range.

Reach

This weapon's optimal reach is 2 yards greater than its minimum reach instead of 1 yard.

Sized

This weapon comes in multiple sizes and is only usable if it was created for someone of your size.

Slicing

This weapon deals +2 damage against unarmored, flesh-type targets.

Thrown

This weapon cannot be used two-handed to make a ranged attack.

Two-Handed

This weapon must be used two-handed.

Weapon List

The table below gives the names, statistics, costs, and other properties of the available weapons, organized by weapon group.

Armor

There is a wide variety of armor available to choose from. In reality, these armors come from many different time periods and cultures, but they are condensed here into a single list. Different armors have their own advantages and disadvantages, but broadly speaking, the stronger an armor's defensive bonuses, the heavier it is and therefore the more it will reduce your maximum stamina, causing you to tire more quickly in combat. Some heavy armors also hamper mobility slightly or have other drawbacks. The pros and cons of each armor type will have to be weighed to make the best choice for your situation.

Armor Statistics

Different armor types have different statistics. The meanings of each are described below.

Thresholds

Each armor has a set of threshold ratings that are added to your base thresholds against damage from standard attacks. Certain special attacks (specified in their descriptions) ignore armor.

Class

Armors are classified as soft, medium, or hard. In general, harder armors are heavier and provide greater protection from most weapon attacks. Certain weapons have bonuses or penalties against certain classes of armor.

Medium and hard armors can be worn over any type of soft armor. When wearing multiple layers of armor, the final threshold bonuses are equal to the outer layer's thresholds plus one less than the thresholds of each interior armor layer (minimum 0 per layer). You always count as wearing armor of the outer layer's class.

Don

Regardless of the type of armor, getting into or out of it is usually a time-consuming process. The time listed here is the amount of time required to put on a suit of armor of that type. Getting out of the armor requires half that time. For any plate armor, the time listed assumes you have an assistant to help you. Without an assistant, field plate and full plate are treated as half plate, since some pieces cannot be equipped properly, and the time to don any plate is double the normal half plate time.

If you are interrupted while donning or doffing armor, the thresholds are reduced proportionally to the time spent so far (rounding down).

Properties

There are a few common armor properties that affect how it is used.

Irritating

Wearing this armor without soft armor underneath causes 1 fatigue every hour and prevents a long rest from reducing your fatigue, as the harsh metal chafes and pinches uncomfortably if not sufficiently padded.

Multi-Layered

This armor may be worn over mail either in addition to or instead of a soft armor.

Stiff

You have a -1 penalty to your Dexterity and cannot benefit from a long rest while wearing this armor.

Armor List

Different armor types are listed in the table below. The cost and weight listed are for size 0 armor, and all types of armor must be sized to their specific wearer. For different sizes, adjust the cost and weight as shown in the table to the right.

Armor Descriptions

The basic types of armor are described below.

Leather Coat

Little more than thick clothing, a leather coat offers very little protection, but is still better than nothing. Any heavy clothing, such as a winter jacket or especially thick cloak, could also offer this level of protection.

Arming Jacket

An arming jacket is intended to be worn under heavier armor, such as mail or plate. It serves as padding to prevent chafing while being thin enough to not significantly hamper movement or contribute to excess heat buildup.

Gambeson

Typically the first suit of armor a would-be soldier purchases, a gambeson is a heavy coat comprised of dozens of layers of linen overlapping and sewn together. It provides a substantial amount of protection at relatively little cost, and other than being a bit warm is not too uncomfortable to wear. Most heavier suits of armor must be worn over a gambeson in order to offer their full protection and to not cause terrible chafing.

Scale

Scale armor consists of small pieces of metal sewn to a backing of leather or cloth. The metal pieces overlap in a way that imitates fish scales, providing decent somewhat-flexible protection all over. Individual scales can easily be knocked off in the course of a battle, so scale armor needs regular repairs to remain functional.

Lamellar

Lamellar is comprised of rectangular pieces of metal or thick hide sewn together at the edges. Often, but not always, the pieces overlap slightly. Unlike scale, these pieces are not sewn onto a backing material. The cords holding the edges together are an obvious weakness and must be frequently repaired.

Mail

Mail is generally the standard level of armor that any career soldier aspires to purchase and wear. It is made of thousands of tiny metal rings interlinked and riveted closed. Highly flexible and relatively light for its level of protection, mail is extremely popular. On its own, it is weak against heavy impacts, but the gambeson underneath makes up for this weakness and reinforces it all around.

Brigandine

Brigandine is comprised of dozens of small metal plates riveted either behind an outer layer of leather or fabric or between two separate layers. The outer layer can be plain cloth, silk, or occasionally leather, and is often decorated as much as any normal clothing. The plates generally do not overlap or do so only slightly, and are small enough to allow almost as much freedom of movement as being unarmored.

Half Plate

Essentially an incomplete set of field plate, half plate is armor for the torso, head, and arms, leaving the legs relatively unprotected. It is made of large, solid pieces of metal that are articulated at the joints to allow movement. Interior armor layers, such as mail and a gambeson, are relied upon to fill in gaps and cover the less protected areas. Gauntlets are included. Half plate can be upgraded to field plate by paying the cost difference plus 250 ep and spending the necessary time for fitting.

Field Plate

Field plate is a knight's armor. The entire body is covered in solid metal plates, except for a few potential weak points on joints, seams, or the back of the legs which expose the interior padding or rely on small sections of mail. Each piece of armor must be custom-fitted to its wearer, a process that requires at least one fitting a week for a month while the armor is being made. It is possible to modify plate armor to fit a new owner, but the same time restrictions apply, and it can cost as much as half the cost of the armor itself, depending on how extensive the modifications must be. Gauntlets are included.

Full Plate

Full plate is the most protective armor available, and is usually reserved for the richest of noble knights. As with field plate, each piece is precisely fitted to its wearer, but full plate takes even longer to create and fit: at least one fitting every other week for three months of work. Full plate needs no mail in its joints, instead using fully covered and articulated joints, keeping all areas protected at all times. Gauntlets are included.

Equipment Quality

Some weapons or armors are made of subpar materials, were worked by an unskilled craftsman, or are old and rusted. Alternatively, they could be crafted of special metals or woods or made by master artisans. Regardless of the reason, some weapons and armors are better than others. When a piece of equipment is of higher or lower quality than average, it gains special properties as listed below.

Shoddy

Shoddy equipment is generally only used as a last resort or when it is necessary to mass produce equipment for a town's defense. Equipment that has been left out in the elements for extended periods will often deteriorate to this level, while young apprentices might manufacture equipment of this level in their training. Buying shoddy equipment generally costs about one-third the normal price. It is very difficult to pass off as being of any higher quality. The craft TN is 6 lower than the base and the durability is half that of average equipment.

Weapons have a -2 penalty to accuracy and damage and a +1 penalty to heft, and automatically break if the attack roll is a critical failure. Armors have all thresholds reduced to half their normal value (rounded down). Additionally, you suffer a -1 penalty to Dexterity on top of any the armor would normally impose.

Poor

Many merchants will try to pass off poor equipment as being average quality, but a discerning eye can tell the difference (TN 2 Perception check, potentially applying a related crafting skill). If known to be poor quality, it generally sells for about three-fourths of the normal price. The craft TN is 3 lower than the base and the durability is reduced by 25%.

Weapons have a -1 penalty to accuracy and damage. Armors have a -1 penalty to all thresholds greater than 1.

Average

Average equipment is just that. It sells for standard price or higher, and has no special modifiers.

Fine

Fine equipment costs 4 times the standard price. The Craft TN is 3 higher than the base and the durability is increased by 10%.

Weapons gain a +1 bonus to damage. Armors gain a +1 bonus to the two weakest thresholds starting with the most severe.

Superior

Superior equipment is generally only available on special request, and costs 12 times the base cost. They have a Craft TN 6 higher than the base and the durability is increased by 25%.

Weapons gain a +1 bonus to accuracy and damage. Armors gain a +1 bonus to all thresholds.

Masterwork

Masterwork equipment must be specially requested and costs 25 times the base cost. It has a Craft TN 10 higher than the base and the durability is increased by 50%.

Weapons gain a +1 bonus to accuracy and damage and a -1 bonus to heft. Armors gain a +1 bonus to all thresholds and weigh 10% less than normal. If the armor is normally stiff, that property is removed.

Adventuring Gear

In addition to weapons and armor, there are many other supplies that adventurers may need. Some of the more common ones are listed in the table to the right. Items with special rules are detailed below.

Ammunition

Arrow, bodkin. When this arrow is shot from a bow, the bow acts as if it has the armor piercing property and its maximum range is reduced by 10%.

Arrow, flight. When this arrow is shot from a bow, the bow's maximum range is increased by 50%.

Bolt, bodkin. When this bolt is shot from a crossbow, the crossbow acts as if it has the armor piercing property and its maximum range is reduced by 10%.

Clothing

Clothing can come in all sorts of fashions and materials, and prices can vary wildly. Those listed in the table assume relatively plain, functional clothing. Fancier varieties such as would be suitable to upper nobility can easily cost as much as 100 times this amount, and are often heavier as well.

Containers

Backpack. Always useful for an adventurer, this leather backpack is designed to distribute weight comfortably across the body as much as possible. It holds up to two cubic feet of material or 100 lbs. Various hooks and straps on the outside can also be used to attach extra items like ropes, lanterns, or weapons.

Chest, large. This wooden chest is approximately 24 by 18 by 12 inches, with sides 1 inch thick. It is often reinforced with metal along certain edges. It has a latch which can be outfitted with a lock.

Chest, small. This wooden chest is approximately 8 by 10 by 12 inches, but is otherwise like a large chest.

Lights

Most lights create moderate light in a set radius or cone, with the strength of the light diminishing past this point. Whatever light level is specified extends to the end of the radius, then the next dimmer level extends for the same distance from the edge of the stronger light, then the next dimmer, and so on. For example, if an item creates moderate light in a 5-yard radius, then it also creates dim light out to 10 yards and shadowy light out to 15 yards.

Candle. Candles are among the most common sources of light indoors and come in many varieties. A typical candle creates moderate light in a 1-yard radius and burns for 1 hour per inch. The cost listed is for a six-inch candle, but they can come in nearly any size or thickness.

Lamp. Oil- or fat-burning lamps can be made of metal or clay, and do not include an enclosure for the flame. They create moderate light in a 1-yard radius and burn for 2 hours per ounce of oil.

Lantern. Lanterns are usually metal cases with small holes to let out the light while offering some protection from wind to keep the candle or oil inside burning. Some more expensive options might instead have glass enclosures with only enough of an opening for air so the flame doesn't suffocate. They create moderate light in a 1-yard radius and burn for 2 hours per ounce of oil or 1 hour per inch of candle.

Lantern, bullseye. Bullseye lanterns are specially designed with mirrors on the inside to direct all the light in a specific direction. They create moderate light in a 5-yard cone in front of them and burn for 2 hours per ounce of oil or 1 hour per inch of candle.

Torch. A torch is a handheld light meant primarily for outdoor use, as it generates copious amounts of thick black smoke that would quickly fill most interior rooms and coat the ceiling and walls with a black residue. It can be made from a single stick, a bundle of reeds, or any similar implement, and has a longer-burning, flammable substance at one end, such as linens dipped in oil or fat. It creates moderate light in a 3-yard radius and burns for 20 minutes.

Torch, extended. This is a type of torch that is designed to burn for a long period. It is roughly as long as a staff or polearm, with the upper half all wrapped in burnable material that slowly burns away to keep a steady level of light. It creates moderate light in a 3-yard radius and burns for 2 hours.

Magic Items

These are the magic items most commonly available for purchase. Most can be found in a large city, but smaller towns will likely have a limited selection, and many villages will have none. See the individual descriptions in the magic items section.

Miscellaneous

Lock. There are many varieties of lock, but most are metal and require a specific key to open. They can be incorporated into other objects, such as in a door handle, or separate padlocks that hook through a latch or chain. Picking a lock without its key requires a Prc [Thievery/Locks] check with a TN based on the lock's complexity. A poor lock has a TN of 2, an average lock has a TN of 5, and a good lock has a TN of 8. If you do not have a set of thieves' tools, you must rely on improvised tools and take a -3 penalty to your check.

Rope, hemp. Made of natural fibers, this rope is ¾ of an inch thick and can support up to 400 lbs safely, accounting for minor wear, knots, bends, and roughly moving or falling weights. Most of the time, it can handle weights of two or three times this amount without risk, provided there are no sudden strains. Under ideal circumstances, with a straight rope and a stationary weight, it can support up to 12 times this weight. The rope breaks if it takes 40 points of damage to a single section, and its maximum safe load is reduced proportionally to the damage taken at the most damaged point.

Rope, silk. Much lighter and stronger than hemp rope, this rope can support 800 lbs safely, or 600 lbs safely when wet. It otherwise acts just like hemp rope.

Magic Items

Magic items come in many varieties. Most require mana in order to function, and many are made more powerful as more mana is invested into them.

Investing Mana in Objects

You can choose to add mana from your pool into a magical item in your possession at any time as an action (AP Cost 6), but you can only return the mana to your pool after a long rest. You do not need to have the item in your possession to do so. Mana invested into an item is automatically returned if the object is destroyed, if you die, or if you spend 3 consecutive days more than 1 mile away from the object.

Most magical items require a minimum amount of mana to be stored in them in order to function, and have increased potency with additional mana. You can use an item that is powered by someone else's mana. Mana from different sources doesn't mix well. If an item has mana from multiple sources powering it, its effective mana charge is equal to either the single greatest value from all sources, or half the total value, whichever is higher.

Mana invested into an item is unbound until used. Once used to power a function of the item, that mana is bound to that function and cannot be used for any other effect. You can unbind mana in items in your possession after a short rest.

Items can have multiple active properties, as long as they do not conflict with each other. If there is a conflict, the currently active property must first be deactivated before activating the new one.

Magic Weapon Properties

These magic properties can be applied to all kinds of weapons, unless specifically restricted in the description.

Flametongue

Frostbrand

Lengthening

Lightningform

Magic Armor Properties

These properties can be applied to any type of armor or to articles of clothing.

Flamecloak

Crystals

Magic crystals are among the most common of magic items and can be used to produce various magical effects or to add enchantments to other pieces of equipment.

Flame

Warm to the touch, this crystal grants various fire-based abilities. When attuned to a weapon, the weapon gains the Flametongue property. When attuned to a piece of armor or clothing, the armor gains the Flamecloak property.

Crafting

It is possible to craft most standard types of equipment yourself, if you have the proper training and tools. Crafting an item requires time, money, and a related skill gained by taking a crafting ability. If you attempt to craft something without having the associated ability, you are treated as having a score of -3 in the skill.

Crafting is usually a long and complex process taking place over hours, days, or even months. Anything that requires longer than a day requires multiple checks to craft, while items requiring one day or less only need a single check. The average result of all checks determines the final quality of the crafted item, as shown in the table to the right. It is possible to rush your work, reducing the time between checks by one third by taking a -3 penalty to your check before rolling, or reducing the time by half by taking a -6 penalty to your check. Alternatively, you can increase the time between checks by 50% to gain a +1 bonus, or triple it to gain a +2 bonus. Items that don't have specific rules regarding quality may have bonuses or penalties at the GM's discretion. Possible examples include shoddy items breaking on a -3 or lower when used in a check, masterwork items weighing less or providing up to a +3 bonus to checks that use the item, or similar effects.